Shopping Girl

Fashion Week Fall 2010 Preview

In looking for the latest and greatest in the upcoming Fall season, it’s the establishment who appear like fresh faces. A slew of industry stalwarts are re-surfacing on the New York fashion calendar with either a debut collection (hello, Coach rainmaker, Reed Krakoff!), or as a second-coming for stars of decades past (Norma Kamali, the 80′s goddess of jersey, swim and sportswear; plus Mobama favorite, Maria Pinto). For American avant-gardist, Jeremy Scott, it is a change of venue from the City of Lights back to the Big Apple.

What do retailers think of this new old scene? Beth Buccini, co-owner of the ruthlessly edited boutique, Kirna Zabete says, “It’s wonderful.” Laura Vinroot Poole of Capitol in North Carolina adds, “I’m thrilled about Norma Kamali and only wish I could find my killer bathing suit of hers from junior high (and would be more thrilled if I could fit one leg in it!)”

And why now? Buccini offers, “People are thinking of present and future value for big purchases.” Who better to produce as much than designers who have already stood the test of time?

At left, Coach creative director Reed Krakoff, with his wife, Delphine.

Fashion Week Fall 2010 Preview

High-fashion milliner, Albertus Swaenpoel, caps off a whopping 13 designers’ shows this season – making a collaboration with his label Albertus Q, the ne plus ultra of the week. Look for his fancy toppers to be gracing the heads of models at Carolina Herrera, Derek Lam, DKNY, Theory, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Peter Som, Narciso Rodriguez, Cushnie and Ochs, Vera Wang, Jill Stuart, (the aforementioned) Reed Krakoff, Suno, and Timo Weiland.
Whew!

Does this signal an obvious return to headgear? Here is what the 2008 CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund Winner and the 2009 nominee for the Swarovski CFDA Accessory Award had to say: “I think, and hope, so! It’s always more prevalent for Fall and the inspiration is very diverse this season. It ranges from very modern architectural shapes to historical shapes re- interpreted.”

Our virtual hat goes off to you, Albertus!

Fashion Week Fall 2010 Preview

Now in their fourth season, Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs’ body-conscious designs have gained momentum among the fashion flock.

And this time around, the 2009 Ecco Domani Fashion Fund winners will have even more to show for their efforts. The darling duo will unveil their latest offerings on February 11th including a rash of first-time accessories. Hats will be created with the aforementioned Albertus Swanepoel; gloves with Jennifer Marie of Hugo & Marie; and shoes with catwalk cobbler Alejandro Ingelmo.

Expect this to be one of the top show tickets of the season.

Fashion Week Fall 2010 Preview

This pouty-lipped 15-year-old was plucked out of Kansas by Steven Meisel last Fall, and not long there after opened Prada’s Spring 2010 show in Milan (the other girls were made-up to emulate her cartoon pout and drippy teenage hair). A star was born.

Her heart-shaped face is currently in the Miu Miu campaign (normally, a spot occupied by the likes of celebrities such as Kirsten Dunst and La Lohan). Right now, this filly holds all the cards and will walk only the luckiest designers’ shows.

“She’s very different, an artistic, inspirational kind of girl,” says casting director, Nelson Silva. “She’s like a Lolita and at the age of 15 she’s only going to get better and better as a model and as an artist.”

Lindsey Wixson walks in Miu Miu’s Spring 2010 Runway show.

Fashion Week Fall 2010 Preview

The Hudson Hotel is about to open a raw subterranean space with two-levels and 30-foot ceilings called Good Units. The party kicks off February 9th, with a soiree for Interview Magazine’s 40th Anniversary. And on February 11th, designer and Sex and the City” wardrobe queen, Patricia Field, will debut a Keith Haring-inspired collection in the 6000-square-foot spot.

The converted space is a former YMCA and has exposed graffiti and a gym class vibe, with vintage bleachers, gym-mat derived furniture, and cargo netting. To top-off the “Smells Like Teen Spirit” grunge theme, waiters will don a uniform of thrift-store tuxedo shirts, suspenders, cut-off denim shorts and Doc Martens.

All that irony is sure to attract downtown-centric hipsters to midtown. And when fashion week moves to Lincoln Center in September, the spot will literally be party central.

Fashion Week Fall 2010 Preview

Get ready to show off your Poker Face ladies!

According to Lancôme’s Kerry Diamond, “Lady Gaga has inspired every makeup artist I know.”

Gaga (as she prefers to be called) definitely gave us a lot to take in at the recent Grammy’s, but does this mean we’ll see models with large pink rectangles over their eyes? Not quite.

“The adventurous spirit in makeup was evidenced by all red lips on the red carpet at the Globes,” says Diamond. That we can handle.

“The only thing I hope we don’t see is boring makeup. There’s no excuse for that this season,” she warns.

Fashion Week Fall 2010 Preview

With its cross-body shoulder strap and attaché-like appeal, the Proenza Schouler PS1 bag is the new classic among the chic set. There is plenty of room under the soft buckled flap for Smythson notebooks (de riguer among editors), digital cameras, and, of course, show invites.

Of course with great design, comes a great price tag. This covetable item runs from $895 for a clutch to $5,250 for an extra large python version, but don’t fret. Luckily this messenger bag/brief case hybrid is the new shape for spring.

(Read: different variations are already available at mainstream retailers like J.Crew and A.P.C.)

Fashion Week Fall 2010 Preview

What does a fashion editor wear when temperatures drop below zero? “Over the knee boots!,” exclaims Meggan Crum, Accessories Director of InStyle Magazine.

Crum loves her Louboutin version so much, she calls them the new “it-bag.” These runway sensations from Fall have hit their stride, and are keeping chic gams warm on cold streets and cool nightclubs alike.

Fashion Week Fall 2010 Preview

In the long line of fashion week show ponies-Camilla Belle, Leighton Meester, Alexa Chung-it would appear that a leading indicator of such status is being trotted out by Vogue.

With this in mind, we predict that this season’s ubiquitor will be the British actress and newly-minted Oscar nominee, Carey Mulligan. To wit, the star of “An Education” made her debut this summer at Vogue’s screening of “The September Issue.”

But, since the onset of award season, the pixie-haired beauty has graced innumerable red carpets and best-dressed lists, and has clearly established herself as A-list material. We envision that she’ll be front row and the focus of shuttering lenses just about every day.

After all, she does need to pick out an Oscar dress for the big ceremony in March!

Fashion Week Fall 2010 Preview

What are show-goers to do now that cabs town cars have been cut back at Condé Nast, and cabs are impossible to catch?

A few stylish ladies-about-town have already found a way around the traffic dilemma.

Vogue’s Lauren Santo Domingo zooms about fashion week in her SmartCar. The editrix parks her tiny wheels mere steps away from shows, in spots so skinny, only a bike would otherwise fit.

Stylist and TV costume designer, Amanda Ross, has been employing Ozo, a green taxi service, for some time now. Old habits die hard, and the former Market Director from Harper’s Bazaar is accustomed to white glove service. An electric version of the “black car” does the trick and also elegantly balances out her carbon footprint.

When all else fails, there’s nothing like pedaling your way to the tents. Such is the case for Sabine Heller, an editorial and brand consultant, who opts for a rickshaw when her guerilla taxi-hailing tactics fail heed results. The New York and Bombay native is equally comfortable in both, and rather enjoys the scenic ride along Sixth Avenue.

Fashion Week Fall 2010 Preview